One sister's meatless and mellow vacation

WHEN ESSENCE ARTICLES EDITOR MICHELLE BURFORD said she wanted to jump-start a workout plan and strip away stress, we sent her to the Spa Atlantis Ocean Resort in Pompano Beach--a scenic little town near Fort Lauderdale on Florida's beautiful southeastern Gold Coast. Take a peek into the spa adventure that brought Michelle back with a new groove--and fewer pounds.

Arrival: `Who Is That Fat Woman?'

This room is da bomb! I have windows on every side, overlooking the beach, the sauna and the pool. And the staff?. Too nice.

The truth: I've always been chunky. But three years ago I hit bottom. I saw a photo of myself at five feet eight inches and 200 pounds and was mortified. Who is that fat woman? After starving myself for six months and exercising like a fanatic, I shrank from a size 18 to an 8.

A year later I regained 70 pounds. Each day I would promise myself that today would be different. Today I wouldn't load on the blue-cheese dressing or stop for a Big Mac.

For me, today is here--my last-ditch effort to start a new life. I set my alarm for 5:00 A.M., because all I can do is expect, hope, believe.

Day 1: Let the Games Begin

Sunshine is pouring in, and the stress is already melting away. Aah. After an early jaunt on the beach and an all-fruit breakfast (kiwi rocks!), I jump into my first class: step aerobics. When a sister with killer curves steps into the room, I know I'll feel the burn.

Next: hydrotoning. I slide into the pool in a shirt and biker shorts, hoping the other guests won't notice my size. But people aren't looking at my behind. They seem too busy hoping no one will notice theirs. Whew.

Finally, after a jog on the treadmill and a try at the Stairmaster, the big test is here: lunch. That breakfast thing was cute, but I am mad serious about my midday meal. The spread is colorful--beets, carrots, leafy-green lettuce. I don't love it, but it is kinda tasty--especially when there's no other choice.

Afternoon brings my favorite part: pampering. I get a facial, an aromatherapy massage and what the folks in the salon call watsu--a therapeutic massage in the pool.

Tonight they serve us something that resembles lasagna. It's actually pretty good. After eating, I wander over to the model room for the new Spa Atlantis, which will be finished by mid-2000 and located just blocks away from this site. Very modern, very chi-chi. Who knew this resort could get better?

Day 2: `Why Do I Overeat?'